Ocean Minded

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i wasn’t planning to go to the North shore today so i woke up at 5am which is late.  i was just about to drive to Diamond Head to foil when i got the call from “The Lion King.”  he said “come to the North shore now.  i want to see your progress.”  omg, i instantly got nervous!  he wanted to see how i tow in foil, and more importantly, how i drive the ski now.  of course i was nervous but i had to be calm because this Lion is my master teacher.  as calm as i was, i still made big mistakes.  so big that if today was 20′, it could be life threatening for him, and me.  so when i was driving home, i had a lot of time to think how to improve.  today’s lesson will help me get stronger and wiser.  sometimes the ocean won’t give second chances so i was very humbled.  now all i want is to get better and better…

it was a short training session but i was hungry enough to eat a whole chicken.  today was 20% physical and 80% mental.  i’m going to rethink the whole session before i sleep and train my mind to become more ocean minded…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide