it was so peaceful and entertaining to watch everybody having so much fun surfing this perfect right. i was laughing most of the time because it’s so close to the beach so i can see their facial expressions. it’s pure stoke!
this is probably the best spot on the island to practice surfing small waves. and look outside to the far right. that’s a perfect foil wave. you take off way out there and ride it all the way to the beach, then pump back out. amazing!
if you’re a surfer, the ultimate surfing maneuver is going straight up the lip. we call it going 12 o’clock and if you can do this, you’re on a good board, a good wave, and have a good life. this on my 6’8 Mike Woo, surfing Off The Wall, and loving life…