this was an advertisement from a Japanese surfing magazine. it was taken many years ago at Off the Wall and till this day, i still remember this wave. it was a sunny 6-8′ day with perfect conditions. i was out for 3 hours trying to connect with photographer Seth Stanford. it was hard because the other 30 pro surfers were trying to do the exact same thing. finally, all the stars aligned and this was the result. when i came in that day, i knew i got the perfect shot because i did my job, and i knew Seth did his. i was driving back to town very happy that day. then when the magazine came out, i was even happier! this is like a dream shot for both a surfer and a photographer. super stoked!
a bunch of my foil friends asked why i got back into short boarding so much recently. this is why. nothing in the world will beat the feeling of being deep in the barrel like this. absolutely nothing!
