A Painful Injury

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2 months ago, i pulled into a barrel on my surfboard and didn’t make it.  my toes bent all the way to my ankle.  the next morning i woke up, my foot was in pain, super swollen, and i couldn’t walk.  so i went to the Emergency Room and the doctor told me i couldn’t surf for at least 2 months.  i told the doctor, “you are joking right?”  he said “no i’m not.”  i was in shock! 

he gave me this foot brace and crutches and told me to say in bed for a while.  i could barely walk, but i knew that the ocean would fix anything so i kept going into the ocean.  i couldn’t short board or foil because i couldn’t pop up.  BUT, after thinking about it, i thought “um, maybe i can tow in foil?  it’s easy to get up so that might work.”  

so the next day, i went to tow in and i was right!  it hurt like hell but once i got on waves like this, the pain was instantly gone.  it’s crazy how the ocean fixes everything!   but after i got back to the harbor, all the pain came back and had to almost crawl back to my car.  thankfully, i’m 90% now so life is much better…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide