2 months ago, i pulled into a barrel on my surfboard and didn’t make it. my toes bent all the way to my ankle. the next morning i woke up, my foot was in pain, super swollen, and i couldn’t walk. so i went to the Emergency Room and the doctor told me i couldn’t surf for at least 2 months. i told the doctor, “you are joking right?” he said “no i’m not.” i was in shock!
he gave me this foot brace and crutches and told me to say in bed for a while. i could barely walk, but i knew that the ocean would fix anything so i kept going into the ocean. i couldn’t short board or foil because i couldn’t pop up. BUT, after thinking about it, i thought “um, maybe i can tow in foil? it’s easy to get up so that might work.”
so the next day, i went to tow in and i was right! it hurt like hell but once i got on waves like this, the pain was instantly gone. it’s crazy how the ocean fixes everything! but after i got back to the harbor, all the pain came back and had to almost crawl back to my car. thankfully, i’m 90% now so life is much better…