Mental Preparation

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when i tried to get into the parking lot, i almost ran over this guy sleeping outside the gate.  i went outside to wake him up but he didn’t get up.  it took me a while, but i finally got in.  it’s pretty sad how the homeless problem in Hawaii is getting worst.  

loaded up the gear.  just like surfing and surfboards, you need an extra gun for special conditions.  everybody was prepared.

leaving Oahu is always so exciting.  i wish i could say the same when we’re coming back.  going back a 100 years to old Hawaii, then coming back to new Hawaii is a shocker for everyone.  so leaving is always the highlight…

there is no Foodland or Costco where we’re going to we take what we need.  the rest, Mother Ocean provides.  

it’s always so exciting getting further and further away from Oahu.  we know that we’ll be entering a “slow life” zone soon so the phones get turned off, and our stoke gets turned on!   then i turn into a teenager and we all have a party at sea.  sometimes i forget how old i am.  haha…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide