this morning i went training to a place where nobody goes. i took my 5’10 shortboard and went to my secret spot. it was way overhead and very powerful so i just wanted to practice my take offs. i took off on 10 very hollow waves and everything when perfect. this week Backdoor is going to be perfect so now i’m a little more prepared than last time.
omg, i haven’t eaten yakiniki for the longest time.
Takahashi-san surfed 2 rounds this morning on the North Shore so he was hungry too. we had an amazing dinner.
the raw beef with the egg yolk on the top is my favorite. it’s called “yuke” and this place is the best on Oahu. now i’m super full. going to sleep good, wake up at 3am, then head out to the North Shore to look for barrels. hope you guys had a wonderful day! goodnight….
