i think i have surfing fever again! waking up at 3am and looking in the dark for waves. i pulled up to Pipeline in the dark and it wasn’t that good.
so i went to check Rocky Point. it was better but lots of guys paddling out.
then i met up with Takahashi-san and looked at other spots. he wanted to surf somewhere uncrowded so i took him to check my secret spots.
we pulled up and there was nobody out! omg, lucky!!!
Takahashi-san doesn’t like to surf lefts so i took him to surf lefts. haha. he was ripping!
i love surfing lefts because i feel like i can go more upside-down. hanging my head down going into turns feels like i’m losing my center of gravity. it feels good to let go and push super hard. we ended up surfing this secret spot with nobody else out. i haven’t searched around for waves like this in years. it was so rewarding to finally score epic waves with just a friend out. it was a very happy day!!!
