i want to thank whoever left these apple bananas on my gate. it was delicious!!!
out of the 10 boat trips to the Mentawai Islands, i scored epic waves on 9 of them. this was one of the sessions we had to ourselves. HT’s is the most famous and the most crowded spot in the Mentawai’s, but not on this day. maybe that’s why i don’t want to go back again because it will never be like this…
picked up some Shaka CBD Balm and Sunscreen. thanks Ryo!
there’s this guy who is over 70 years old that tow-in foils everyday. he wears a neck brace to protect his fragile neck. i respect guys like this very much. that is what you call “passion!”