i went to the North shore and got there before the sun came up. i wanted to shortboard but it was too small. i was driving around Haleiwa and passed by Pua’ena Point. nobody was out so i was waiting for anything to break.
right when i saw this wave break, i ran back to my truck and grabbed my foil. i ended up catching 4 waves and pumped all around so it turned out to be 10 waves. a monk seal swam right up to me so today turned out to be a wonderful morning.
when i came in, the parking lot started to get crowded. i saw 4 foilers and 10 long boarders getting ready to paddle out. perfect timing!
Seth texted me this morning and said the contest is probably on. so i rushed to Haleiwa at 8am because he’s in the first heat of the day. omg, it was flat!!!
they need 3 more days to run the event and the good news is we’re getting a big swell this weekend. but the bad news is the winds and swell direction won’t be good. but this is Hawaii and anything can change. i already know where i’m going to surf this weekend, and it’s not going to be on the North shore…
