the waves haven’t been good recently so it’s been really hard to score. i’ve been looking around everyday all day long and when i see something good, i’m there. this day it was just Mayuki and me. it’s days like this i live for…
and when i pulled up to Bowls this morning, it was onshore and raining hard! half the surfers in the parking lot left but i knew the winds would turn offshore and the sun will come out. so we paddled out and waited. and when it did, it was beautiful! the rights and lefts were perfect! i had my longboard but i wish i had my shortboard! sorry if you missed it but tomorrow isn’t going to be like this…
about 70 years ago, my Grandparents taught my Mom how to play hanafuda. then 40 years ago my Mom taught us. now my Mom is teaching Mateus how to play. and Mateus is really good!!!
