i was so excited to surf this morning that i arrived at Sandy Beach way too early. i was the only one there and it was pitch dark. i could feel the salt air blowing in my face so i knew it was onshore. so i proceeded further East.
i was planning to go to Jurassic’s but after seeing all the sand and rocks on the roads, i had to think twice.
then the police started showing up and i’m pretty sure they had to close the roads. the waves were super big and the king high tide caused this. Mother Nature was angry this morning.
this evening i was getting ready to sleep. then i felt the cold wind blowing in my window. omg, the winds turned offshore!!! so i jumped in my car and drove to Diamond Head where i knew it was going to be good. and only a couple guys on a Sunday evening? score!
thank goodness for my Dove “Mad Tailor” wetsuit. i was the warmest guy out there. i had one of the best sessions in a long time today! tomorrow get ready for some crazy heavy rain and floods!!!
