whenever we have big storms like this, i like to drive around and check out the waves. even though it was totally onshore all morning, there could be a chance the winds switch offshore. and right when i pulled up to the flooded parking lot, the wind switched offshore! so i grabbed my surfboard and paddled out to Bowls. i had to duck dive 31 waves in the storm and when i finally got out, the waves were big and breaking over the red buoy!!!! only 2 other crazy guys out. one guy said “i can’t believe we are surfing Big Bowls in December!” yes, we scored!
then i went to take a drive through Waikiki. it was totally flooded!!!
the water was almost coming in the doors of my little van. the ocean was still clean today but tomorrow it will be dark brown everywhere. stay out…
