i wasn’t sure if i was going to surf today because the water was super dirty. but i need the ocean so i went to look for clean water. i ended up cruising around the whole Waikiki because it’s usually the cleanest. not today. almost giving up, i thought i’d look towards the airport.
my main focus was foiling but i always have a surfboard on Mayuki just in case.
and lucky i had a surfboard because when i passed by Big Rights, the water was clean and the waves were perfect! there was nobody out for the 3 hours i surfed. this is the first time in 35 years i surfed perfect Big Rights in December. thank you Santa!
without Mayuki, my life wouldn’t be complete. i’m super grateful for the life i have, and i’m super grateful for the ocean we have. i came in today smiling so much that my cheeks were hurting. haha…
if you’re planning to surf at Bowls anytime soon, think again. i never seen this much debris in the water in my life. all this junk will go straight through the lineup followed by brown stinky water for a many days. be smart and stay out!