Early Christmas Present

195

i wasn’t sure if i was going to surf today because the water was super dirty.  but i need the ocean so i went to look for clean water.  i ended up cruising around the whole Waikiki because it’s usually the cleanest.  not today.  almost giving up, i thought i’d look towards the airport. 

my main focus was foiling but i always have a surfboard on Mayuki just in case.  

and lucky i had a surfboard because when i passed by Big Rights, the water was clean and the waves were perfect!  there was nobody out for the 3 hours i surfed.  this is the first time in 35 years i surfed perfect Big Rights in December.  thank you Santa!

without Mayuki, my life wouldn’t be complete.  i’m super grateful for the life i have, and i’m super grateful for the ocean we have.  i came in today smiling so much that my cheeks were hurting.  haha…

if you’re planning to surf at Bowls anytime soon, think again.  i never seen this much debris in the water in my life.  all this junk will go straight through the lineup followed by brown stinky water for a many days.  be smart and stay out!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide