we drove out to the North shore in the dark not knowing what to expect. i was thinking it would be small and crowded. well, it was the total opposite. we went to check one of my secret spots and nobody was there! the waves were overhead and so clean. we surfed 4 hours and only one guy came out, caught 3 waves, and went in. so we had this spot all to ourselves all morning long. i can’t believe this is the North Shore! 
the last South swell is long gone. but the memories will last forever. i never look back, but i like looking back on this one.
getting old but still throwing spray. haha…
