another dawn patrol on the North shore this morning. the swell were solid 6′ but it was missing Haleiwa. so Haleiwa being so small, we decided to look around for a more challenging wave. 
i was with someone who wanted a challenge. so i got out my 5’10 and thought, let’s challenge ourselves. i didn’t tell him where we were paddling out to because i know he would be super nervous. 
the waves were solid 6′ and pretty crazy. my shortboard was way too small but i knew i had to lead by example. if i couldn’t make the wave, he would have doubts. so i had to focus pretty hard. haha. it was such a great feeling riding big waves again! thank goodness i didn’t fall and break my board, or snap my 5′ skinny comp leash. whew…
right before we paddled in, i said “guess what? we’re surfing right now at Avalanche.” you should have saw his face! he was super surprised. haha. Avalanche is well known as a crazy thick and powerful wave for big wave riders. i couldn’t believe how perfect it was today! we scored! and now we have a newborn big wave rider! “men who ride mountains.”
after a challenging day, a nice bowl of noodle just hits the spot! tomorrow we’re searching for another perfect wave. can’t wait!!!
