it’s been so fun these past few days. just watching the waves going up and down. the constant changing of conditions while we’re always searching for the perfect wave.
this morning we tricked another friend into surfing with us. we told her we were going to surf this little fun wave on the North Shore. but we took her out to 6′ Avalanche. she had no idea what she was going to experience. haha.
when we told her that we where surfing Avalanche, she was super happy! i saw some solid 6′ sets break on her head but it was ok. it’s pretty funny how surfing is 90% mental because if i told her we were going to surf Avalanche in the parking lot, no way she would have came out with us. she ended up catching 8 big sets! it was amazing!
for those of you who don’t know, Avalanche is an outer reef tow-in wave. it’s for the guys the love to ride mountains. so when i seen my foil tow-in buddies flying past us, i was super stoked to see them, and i’m pretty sure they were wondering what the heck we were doing out there on our short boards. haha.
Seth won his heat today at Pipeline. something looks wrong with the nose of his surfboard. doesn’t something look wrong? anyway, good luck tomorrow Seth!
