another beautiful morning here at Ala Moana. lovely off shore breezes…
if you have the right board, you can have a lot of fun. walking on water is like a dream…
back in 1992, i moved to Japan. i spoke no Japanese, and i had no friends. there was no internet, no cellular phones, and definitely no google maps. i lived in Shonan so i use to drive this mini car every morning to the beach. i would look for surf up and down the coast getting lost everywhere i went. it took me 3 months to figure out that Shonan is a bay. so when it’s flat, it’s totally flat. i didn’t give up searching for waves every single day and when i found it, i would illegally park the car on the main road, grab my surfboard, and run screaming to the beach. people must have thought i was crazy. and for a guy that surfed everyday in his life to go without waves for weeks, i was literally crazy. haha.
