it’s the Eve of Christmas and the ocean is where we want to be. the waves were small but i’m just grateful to be able to watch the start of the new day rise! looking to the East, we see the sun rise over Diamond Head…
then i turn my head to the West and see a beautiful Jeannie Chesser and a colorful rainbow. it’s moments like this that just take your breath away. and these moments have been happening every single day for the past month!
as for surfing, everyday we are progressing. we’re paddling harder, looking forward, and enjoying each wave to the fullest. just a single wave like this can change your life forever…
