it might have been super cloudy this morning but the conditions were super smooth! Day 9 of Boot Camp and Daisuke-san is turning into a really cool surfer!
thank goodness for this really rare South swell at Bowls. i think it’s been the best December at Bowls as far as i remember. it’s perfect for our training sessions. the bigger the better for Daisuke-san!
i can ride a short board and ride a wave for 45 seconds. but on my foil, it’s endless. the ride ends when i can’t breathe anymore. i just love the way my foil setup is working!
if i had more endurance, nobody would like me. the reason is i would ride 50 waves in 15 minutes and then pump back to my car in the parking lot. hopefully someday soon that will happen and if nobody likes me then, that means i’m doing something right! haha.
every morning around 4am, i’m doing a headstand in my room. i can instantly feel the blood circulating throughout my body and when i’m done, i feel like i’m a teenager again!
