Daisuke-san and i caught our last wave together for our 1st session of the year. i was so happy that i was smiling riding the wave in. then when i took a good look at this photo, i saw Daisuke-san in the back even happier then me. haha. this is the coolest photo ever! 
when i first started surfing when i was a kid, i had no stress at all. then i started competing, going on photo trips, promotions, and surfing became my job. i took it seriously so there was some stress involved. but now, i can finally say that i feel free again! i surf because i like to surf so there is absolutely zero stress. FREEDOM!!!
this is my “wave attack” mode. when you see me bending very low like this, i’m getting ready for something big to come. whether it’s a knee high wave or a 20′ wave, i’m going to attack!
