Day 4 of 2022. i want to spend every single day of this year in the ocean. so far, so good!
as all of my students know, i’m very strict when it comes to the fundamentals of surfing. it’s almost like military training. i won’t stop screaming until you start surfing naturally like this. no excuses…
i put on my long mast today so i could fly higher and faster. and i was flying higher and faster.
the conditions are so perfect for foiling!
and so perfect for surfing too. Daisuke-san is practicing his stance for foiling. his foil debut is coming soon…
only 2 to 3 other guys out this morning again. so far, this year has been the least crowded in the history of January! i hope it continues all year! we love it…
