The Eject Button

371

before we paddled out, i was explaining to Daisuke-san how to fall.  i told him when ever you feel like you’re going to fall, jump as far away from the foil you can.  just eject!  this is exactly what i was talking about!  it looks pretty dramatic, but it actually feels good.  it humbles your mind, body, and soul.  and in the end, it will make you a stronger person…

when i try to get a photo, i sometimes try too hard.  if Daisuke-san’s leash was 1′ longer, i would have had a razor blade foil right between my eyes.  abunai…

this month makes 4 years of foiling for me.  i’d have to say that entering this sport was one of the best decisions of my life.  it made me wiser, stronger, and crazier.  and that’s the lifestyle i always wanted to live.  looking forward to year 5…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide