i was invited on a Japanese magazine surf trip to Samoa. i spent a week there and right when i landed, the waves were like this for 7 days straight! it was literally a barrel festival with only 8 of us Japanese pro surfers in the lineup all day everyday. we booked the whole camp and only people staying at the camp were allowed to surf that spot. so yes, it was exclusive! the only bummer was we weren’t allowed to surf on that Sunday. i learned that in most parts of Polynesia, Sunday’s are for Church so you aren’t allowed to play any sports, including surfing. and the cool thing is that everybody obeys and respects that culture. anyway, the 6 days we surfed were good enough for me. every single wave was a barrel and every single wave i was getting barreled. i’ll never forget that Samoan Barrel Festival!
