Day 15 of 2022: i’m glad we took a break from foiling yesterday because when i woke up this morning, i was super excited to fly again. the conditions and waves once again perfect!
imagine being a bird and flying over the ocean looking at Diamond Head as the day starts. it’s the ultimate feeling of freedom!
then us 2 birds having fun like little kids.
Daisuke-san told me his body was much stronger today. and it sure looked that way!
a couple of my friends said that Daisuke-san is getting good very fast. the first 30 times is the hardest part of foiling. after that, it gets easy. so we’re almost there!
after 4 years of never giving up, i think i foil better than i surf now. and if you asked me 4 years ago how much i’d pay to get me where i am today, i would have paid a million dollars. you just can’t put a price on the feeling of flying over water. it’s totally priceless…
