thanks to this pandemic, my life has slowed down a lot. and i intend to keep it that way. i can enjoy the moments longer, and i can take Mayuki out a lot more than before. that being said, i realized how busy i was these past 20 years. it literally flew by. now the clock is ticking slower than ever and instead of enjoying every minute, i’m enjoying every second. 
and i have much more time to take care of my baby. she’s going to be 10 years old but she’s still looking like a young beautiful thing. 
i’ve had some massive wipeouts in the smallest waves. it’s pretty fun.
there is absolutely no South swell. the swells breaking on the South shore is wrapping around from the North/West direction. sometimes it comes, sometimes it doesn’t. this one came 2 days late so the surf report said “FLAT” in town. yesterday was not “FLAT.” yesterday was head high and perfect. well, that’s if you know where to look. we found this perfect point right that goes forever! only a couple guys and girls sharing the moment. This is Surfing!
