i went to surf Bowls this morning. every 20 minutes there would be a good chest high set. the only problem was there were about a hundred hungry surfers waiting for that wave too. so in the 1.5 hour session, i only caught 3 waves on my shortboard.
then i had to paddle all the way in. i think i’m spoiled. if i chose my foil today, i would have caught 20 waves in 30 minutes and rode it all the way to the sand. tomorrow i’ll make a better decision. 
ever since my nephews got a new boat, they don’t call me to take the diving anymore. haha. but they are going on their own which makes me so proud of them. it was my dream for this day to come…
Joshua said “uncle, i have a fish in the refrigerator if you want it.” omg, of course i want it! so i bring it home and of course i checked carefully how he cleaned it. i made sure there were no forgotten scales or guts in the stomach. i was very strict about cleaning fish all these years.
i checked it over and over and it was absolutely perfect! i was super happy because cleaning is very important. now it’s going to go in my oven and feed my family…
