i went to my closet and dusted off my camera i haven’t used in a very long time. this Canon is the best!
Daisuke-san is learning about surfing, foiling, localism, rules, and manners in a very short time. it takes a normal surfer about 20 years time, a few fist fights, a lot of getting yelled at, and multiple injuries to understand the code of surfing. i’m always watching him closely and we try to obey the code. if someone gets mad at him while he’s with me, they will have to get through me before they get to him. but when he eventually surfs on his own, he’s basically on his own. and let me tell you, there’s some tough localism going around in the ocean in every country. it’s not a fun learning process. i can’t even count how many fights i’ve gotten into while traveling the world. nobody taught me so i learned the hard way…
doesn’t this look so fun?
once you get to a certain level, foiling becomes surfing. the only difference is you’re going 10x faster.
we’ve reached perfection! now it only gets easier…
omg, the water is so clean! i hope the waves go flat so we can do another outer island boat trip! can’t wait!
