Tokoro Pipeline Fever

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Day 32 of 2022:  i’m going to stop counting from today because i don’t even know how many days are in each month.  haha.  i knew the waves were going to get huge today and i knew the contest was going to be on so i drove out in the dark and surfed Haleiwa before the crowd.  omg, it was epic!  then i arrived at Pipeline at 8am, just in time for the contest.

i’m so proud of Seth.  he’s very calm and very confident.  and he’s also a very good role model for the kids.  everybody loves Seth Moniz…

and he even has a fan club.  haha.  i was watching the contest and i saw Wade Tokoro surfboards everywhere!  i think 1/3 of the competitors are riding Tokoro’s.  that’s pretty impressive!

there is no other competitor that has family and friends louder than us.  we make so much noise cheering on Seth that the whole island can hear.  and Kelia is the loudest.  haha.

Seth beat Ezekiel Lau in Round 3 and Felipe Toledo in Round 4. that’s huge wins!  the waves weren’t that great in his heats, but Seth surfed really smart.  he kept cool and calm.  this was right after he beat Felipe.  i went to give him a hug and then i jumped in my car and came home.  smiling the whole way…

only 8 surfers left and i’m guessing they will run the contest tomorrow morning or Saturday.  i’m not missing that!  Go Seth!!!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide