Waterless Life

831

yesterday, the water pipe down my street broke so i didn’t have water all day and all night.  it’s pretty inconvenient but also makes me realize how lucky we are to have running water.  i had to carry containers down and up the street to get water.  i can’t complain because people in some countries walk for miles and miles just to get water.

when i got to Bowls this morning, the waves looked super fun.  i had the choice to foil or surf.

thank goodness i chose my foil because i didn’t want to wait my turn with all these longboards out.  with my surfboard i would have to wait, but with my foil, i can catch the next wave that breaks.  that’s a huge advantage.

watched the amazing sunrise talking story with Jeannie.

this was my last wave.  i took off, pumped into 3 waves and rode it all the way to the beach.  it was a 3 minute ride and when i jumped off on the sand, i wasn’t even tired.  that means my body is getting stronger because the last time i did that, i couldn’t breathe.

then i came home and still no water.  Mateus was nice enough to help me fill up containers.  i didn’t have water for 2 days but we’re surviving.  Mateus will take a shower right here on the street tonight.  me too.  haha.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide