i got to the North shore in the dark and went looking around for waves. i ended up at Haleiwa because Haleiwa was really good! i had 4 boards to choose from and i ended up riding a 6’3 Kerry Tokoro. it was magic!
i’m pretty surprised how uncrowded it can be when you tell yourself “ok, i’m going to paddle out to the peak and catch 3 sets.” even though it’s crowded, i don’t see anyone. haha. so i caught 3 sets in 25 minutes and came in. it was so fast and easy.
i saw Glenn Minami on the beach before he paddled out. he was riding a 6’9 on the 6′ sets. it’s so inspirational to see him still ripping big waves.
after i came in, it was too early to drive back to town in the traffic. so i sat on the beach with my best buddy, talked story, took photos, and enjoyed the beautiful morning on the North Shore.
i used one of Joshua’s magic boards. it’s very narrow and thin but surprisingly it took off so easily. i’m pretty sure i can catch 6′ sets at Backdoor with this board. can’t wait for that!
anyway, i thought the contest was on today but i was wrong. tomorrow for sure. don’t miss one of the most exiting heats of the day “Seth Moniz vs. John John Florence.” Go Seth!!!
