Excited Rainbow Fever

292

want to welcome back the rainbows!  as i was leaving my house this morning in the dark, it was showering so i knew by the time i got in the water, i would see huge double rainbows.  it was amazing!

it seems like the Summer never ended…

i chose a longboard for round 1, then a shortboard for round 2.   both super fun!

then i let my friend ride my longboard and she rode it better than me.  this is so beautiful!

yesterday’s Pipeline Pro is the most talked about topic in the world right now.  watching it from the webcast and on the beach was totally different.  i had my binoculars with me so i saw a lot of things other people couldn’t see.  i wasn’t only looking at the rides, i was looking at the competitors faces.  so i knew who was excited, who was calm, and who was scared.  i’ll give you my report in the next few days.  this photo was taken by Tony Heff from the beach.  in this case, Seth was excited!!!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide