Sharing the Moment Together

779

 

we were out surfing and sharing this special moment with a friend we lost.  it was one of her favorite surf spots so we rode waves, laughed, and even cried.  i could really feel her presence and it felt good to share the ocean together.  this is how she would want us to live our lives.  which is together enjoying the waves…

Takami-san looking stronger than ever.  she was so nice that she caught enough waves for Toda-san too because he’s in Japan.  

Akeme-san is a very funny woman.  it’s crazy that we met in a little bar in Chiba 30 years ago and now we are here.  

Yoriko-san surprised me.  i didn’t realize how good she can surf.  super smooth with a good style.  

25 years ago, Hikaru-san took out sea urchin from my foot in G-Land.  i will never forget that.

ever since the Pipeline contest was over, i didn’t talk or see Seth until now.  that was just 2 days ago so i wanted to have a conversation about the contest.  but like always, we got sidetracked and all we talked about was the new boat.  then before i left, i told Seth “hey, you look happier now then you did getting 2nd at the Pipeline contest.”  he said “I AM!”  haha. we were both laughing so hard.

by the way, somebody asked me what kind of boat that is.  it’s actually a little smaller version of Mayuki.  very hard to find and a very good and reliable boat.  for what the boys do in the ocean, this is absolutely the best of the best.  i’m glad they were patient because patience paid off…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide