When Animals Attack

286

during the heat with John John, Seth broke his leash so as Rainos was running to give him his backup board, i was running to retrieve his other board.  then i saw this idiot jump in the water in front of me and grab the board.  i told him “hey, give me that board now!”  he said “no way, this board is mine!”   and started running away.  i cut him off and was going to grab his neck.  i told him again “give me that board now!!!!”  well, to be honest, i wasn’t that nice the 2nd time.  i used vulgar language.  haha.  then he knew i was serious and gave it back.  as soon as i turn around, i see Micah Moniz and 2 big Hawaiian security guys right behind me.  anyway, that guy was lucky because there was so much adrenaline flowing that i almost attacked him.  all i was thinking about was to put the leash back on as fast as possible because Seth might have still wanted to ride it.  when i got back up the beach, my friends told me i should have punched the guy.  i told them i was almost going to.  but if i did, i would have to watch the finals from jail.  haha.  anyway, i’m so proud of myself for being a responsible adult!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide