Day 43 of 2022: i haven’t missed a day out of the ocean so far this year. today there was a little South Shore swell that nobody expected. so i took out the longboard and rode every wave i possibly could.
the conditions were perfect again!
i rode one of Kelia’s longboards but i couldn’t surf like Kelia. bummer.
today was probably the most empty you will see Bowls for these conditions. it was like a postcard.
i fell on one wave while my camera was on. this photo is pretty cool! the golden lucky shot!
