yippie! another beautiful morning on the South shore. perfect conditions and still a little nice swell.
we went to surf Bowls and it felt good surfing the lefts into the rainbow.
my friend Rodney was riding his old school Ben Aipa so i asked if i could try it. right when i jumped on it, i could feel Ben whispering in my ear “connect!” so that’s what i did. that board felt like magic!
it’s crazy how i always get cool photos when i fall. so that’s my excuse for falling. haha.
