Super Bowl Hangover

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another South Shore false alarm.  the surf report said 2-4′ today but it wasn’t even close.  the funny thing is mostly girls were surfing today.  the guys probably had hangovers from yesterday’s Super Bowl Sunday?  i surely didn’t mind…

when i see talent, i always watch because i can learn.   this young girl paddled out, was calm, confident, and very connected with the ocean.

no leash, surfing in a bikini, and great surfing style.

then right as she passed me, she walked up to the nose and did a Hang 5.  she knew i had a camera so i’m guessing this girl is a professional and knows how to connect with the photographer.  she made it look so easy and i was very impressed…

went to ALO Cafe after surf to get the best acai bowl on the island.  or maybe in the world?  yes, it’s that good!!!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide