The Bad Me

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i really wanted to foil these past few days but there’s just been too many people out at Bowls.  full traffic jam!  

the waves have been small but it’s absolutely perfect.  

absolutely perfect for the surfer girls.

gosh, i can’t believe what happened to Kakaako.  when i was growing up, there use to only be one building there.  that’s pretty crazy.

i found this old photo of me when i was very young.  i was actually shocked when i saw it.  this is when i first moved to Japan.  looking back, i was a pretty bad person.  always curious, mischievous, arrogant, loud, obnoxious, and a troublemaker.   so now i want to thank all my family and friends for not abandoning me.  and i want to apologize to everybody i offended back then.  i’m an example of learning by my mistakes because i sure made a lot of them.  so once again, thank you and sorry…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide