good evening. surf 2x, stand up paddle 1x. i’m beat. it’s 8pm and i just got home from leaving my house at 7am this morning. surfed chest high fun laniakea, checked out some turtles, ate lunch, stand up paddled vland, then shortboarded vland. hit ted’s bakery, and i’m finally home. when we first got to vland, nobody was out. then 2 were out, and it was super fun… i usually don’t surf on days like these but i’m glad i did…..
this is laniakea. 10 years ago, nobody knew there were turtles there. i use to take my japanese friends there to check them out and it was pretty much only us. now days, there are freakin tour busses, limos, tour vans, and every tom, dick and harry stopping there making the worst traffic on the north shore. it’s out of control. and the turtles probably ain’t too happy….
my japanese guests wanted to see turtles so i took them to my secret turtle beach. 10x more turtles than laniakea and no people. see those 2 sleeping on the beach. by the way, i cropped the photo so you can’t find this beach. if this secret beach turns out like the tourist trap at laniakea, i will kill myself….
yeah, i bet this turtle ran away from laniakea to get away from the cameras and tourists. it was just him, and us….
checked out ehukai on the way to vland and it looked fun. surf ehukai with 20 guys? or surf vland with 2? i don’t have to answer that. anyway, i feel pretty dam energetic from being down for so long. i got my full power back and going to be all over this island in the next few days. i’ll be the energizer bunny that keeps going, going, and going…. but for now, the only place i’m going is to sleep. good night….
