another beautiful morning in Hawaii. a nice chest high swell at Ala Moana and no box jellyfish!
i spent the morning observing everyone. there has been some really aggressive surfers coming out recently. it actually gets kind of dangerous. so it was a task keeping my eye on the 3 girls i was with. i don’t want any of them getting hurt.
we took out 3 shortboards and switched with each other. the challenge was to be able to ride all of them without having to adjust. once the girls can figure it out, they’ll grow as better all around surfers.
it’s been a few months since this girl started surfing. now she’s enjoying it and i could see a huge change in her confidence level. the cool thing is that confidence will follower her wherever she goes both in and out of the water. life will only get better for this young woman.
i was digging through my Bali album because i’m planning to go to Bali for my next trip. i could eat this “nashi champur” dish every single day. healthy and happy food!
and i can’t wait to hire a driver to drive me to anywhere i want to go. surf, eat, massages, and seashells. can’t wait!
