Mother Nature or Bad Luck?

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i decided to take a break from surfing today so i focused on cleaning Mayuki.  it was perfect conditions for bottom cleaning.

this has to be one of the hardest kind of cleaning i’ve ever done.

this is what the boat bottom looks like after a month in the ocean.  this is not good for fiberglass so it’s my job to clean it up.

it takes about 50 minutes so about 20 two minute breath holds.  it’s good for my mental and it’s the best exercise ever.   after i’m done, i feel like i just ran a marathon!

as i was finishing up, i looked at the ocean and it was irresistible. super clean with super fun waves.

this is my reward for a day of hard work.  FREEDOM!

everybody knew this was coming.  last night a house at Rocky Point got washed into the ocean.  you can call it global warming, you can call it Mother Nature, or you can call it bad luck.  i call it all of the above.  this is the first of many more to follow…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide