this morning was bigger and better than yesterday morning. more surfers out but it doesn’t matter if you know how to drop in. haha.
this is the first real South swell of the year. nobody’s complaining.
this girl is a doctor and she is probably the nicest surfer girl you’ll ever meet. always smiling, always saying hi, and very calm. all my friends love this girl!
today we short boarded and it was so cool to see major improvements. it’s amazing how fast this young girl learns…
i still can’t believe how good the waves have been this year. it’s so cool that i spent every single day riding something. and that’s not going to stop anytime soon….
