back in march, i met Inaida-san and Yuki-san. it was pretty much their first time surfing and i remember starting from the very basics. get the 11′ longboard out, tow them out, and push them into waves. then towing them in. i remember both of them getting tired after 20 minutes of surfing. little by little, they started progressing and took things step by step. stronger paddling, and better surfboards. now, they are at a whole new level riding 9′ high performance longboards. a level where they paddle out by themselves, get past the breakers on big days, catch waves by themselves, surf for over 2 hours, paddle back in, and feeling great. i’m pretty stoked to see their surfing getting better and better. i don’t think they realize how happy i am watching them progress so fast. sharing surfing to people who haven’t surfed before is just as rewarding as getting a big barrel. it’s pure stoke!
sometimes we surf with nobody around us. go out, catch waves together, and enjoy the ocean. here is 3 of us on the same wave! cool! 10 years ago, going out to the north shore and getting a big barrel use to make me happy. now days, surfing any kind of waves with my friends makes me much more happier. i think i’m finally realizing what surfing is all about. To Inaida-san and Yuki-san, i’m waiting for you. I got your new board at my house and we are going to catch some big waves this winter! See you soon!
