i found these photos of a very happy moment in my life. whenever i go to Okinawa, i feel free, i feel happy, and i feel the mensore spirit. i love all my friends there and when Japan opens up, that’s one of the first places i will go.
this was during a typhoon that was very close to the islands. the waves were huge, the wind were strong, it was very shallow, and the takeoffs weren’t easy. this was my first time back surfing this spot after almost dying there during a previous typhoon. you can only get here by boat so i want to thank Takahashi-san for the ride! and also for saving my life…