Sleep Tight

318

whenever i leave my house, the clouds tell me what kind of day it will be.  these are trade wind clouds which we haven’t seen in a while.  this indicated it would be a little cooler, wetter, windier, and wilder.

i was talking to some of the boys on the beach before we paddled out.  this group ages from 60 to over 70 years old.  it’s so cool to see these guys and girls loving the ocean every single day of their lives.  i’m sure that’s keeping them healthy and happy!  they all inspire me!

Jeannie on the left and Dana on the right.  good to see the great vibe…

and yes, because of the trade winds, there were rainbows!

the 2 girls i’ve been surfing with push each other to be better and better.  they try new things everyday and succeed.  sometimes they laugh, sometimes they cry.  i don’t care how they feel, i just want them to get better and better.  and i can see it happening right in front of my eyes!

i just love this!  tomorrow you girls better be ready for some North Shore!  hope you’re sleeping well.  haha…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide