The Big Hawaiian

286

the trade winds are back so the free Hawaiian air conditioner is back on!  cool winds and warm weather.

and still fun waves if you can be patient.  we had fun so that’s all that matters.

longboading went through a few stages in the past 30 years.  it went from style and grace to high performance turns and attacking the wave.  now it’s back to style and grace so this young woman is on the right path.

i went to see Chuck Andrews yesterday.  he use to shape my surfboards over 30 years ago so we have a good relationship.  Chuck always taught me the essence of “aloha.”  we had a long talk and his stories inspire me.  when he paddles out to any spot on the island, everybody knows who he is.  and if you don’t, you better stay far away from this Hawaiian!  if you ever disrespect Uncle Chuck, you’re in big trouble!!!

after hearing Uncle Chuck’s stories about the Hawaiian culture, i was craving Hawaiian food.  so it was Hawaiian for dinner!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide