i’ve been surfing too much in town recently. nothing bad about it, but there are definitely a lot of interesting people in the ocean. it can get frustrating at times, but when you look at it from the outside, town is town. no rules, no manners, and no respect. so this morning, i called my buddy on the North shore and got the surf report. 5 minutes later, i was driving out in the dark…
omg, when i caught my first wave, i felt so FREE! nobody hassling for waves, nobody yelling, nobody disrespecting, and nobody near me. i felt like i had the whole ocean to myself again!
after i flew around like a bird for 2 hours, i was glad my friend told me to come out today. if he didn’t, i would have been flying like a drunken bird at Ala Moana running over all the long boarders that dropped in on us the past 2 weeks. and that would have been ugly… haha.
