the past 2 days, i decided to take a break from the ocean. those were the first 2 days i missed since the last 6 months or so. so i was super excited to foil this morning. i woke up at 1:30am and couldn’t go back to sleep.
surfing with the full moon was pretty amazing. the waves were perfect size to fly like a bird. i only stayed out for 30 minutes and i was completely satisfied. i caught 10 waves and my last one all the way to the beach.
my friend Donald brought me some fresh meat from Molokai. i met him at the airport to pick it up and i was smiling all the way home!
this animal was hunted and butchered the day before so it was as fresh as it gets. i just had to trim off the skin, then let it bleed over paper towels. this meat has absolutely no smell and it’s as lean as its ever going to get. this is pretty much 1000% organic…
i finished trimming some fillets. now it’s in the refrigerator bleeding out. tomorrow i will eat it sashimi style. i’m going to get the wasabi/shoyu ready. my mouth is watering…