Billabong Bloodlines

313

it was a wonderful day today!  we stopped by at Haleiwa and saw the Billabong Bloodline trading camp in progress.  we saw guys like Ross Williams, Shane and Jackson Dorian, Keanu Asing, Rainos Hayes, and Joshua Moniz.  we stayed there for a couple of hours watching and listening in.  these guys are the best of the best.   

i like the way Rainos coaches the kids.  he’s very patient.  he won’t yell at you and make you cry.   so he makes me look like a bad guy.  haha.  Joshua is the one without a t-shirt.  i couldn’t believe how fit he is!  

my friend hasn’t surfed the North shore before so today was the perfect day for her.  she caught 3 waves at Haleiwa.  this is the same place most of us surfers caught their first wave so it was fun to watch.  she didn’t want to come in.  haha. 

the waves were 6-8′ and pretty powerful.  i was so happy to see Joshua Moniz out there surfing so good.  he looks smoother and more confident than ever.  it’s crazy how a 4 month break can up your game.  

then we went to look at Pipeline.  

then continued around the island to top off the Circle Island day.  lots of laughs and another wonderful day in paradise…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide