Team Lawai'a…

242


konnichi wa. hope you all had a nice day. i sure did… 7am i drove down to the west side and stopped by nanakuli tracks to check out the water. yeah, i knew it was flat, but i wanted to see if the water cleaned up. and yes it did. crystal clean… i was the only one in the parking lot when i took this photo. then when i was about to leave, i seen a truck pulling in with this big hawaiian smiling. he got out of his truck, looked at the water, and started suiting up. yeah, i knew he was happy too that the water cleaned up and when i seen him put on his full suit and bring out his dive gun, you know me. i went to talk to him….

we started off talking about the water conditions. he told me it cleaned up on the west side 3 days ago. then he asked me if i dove. i said, yup. then our conversation went on an on. it’s cool how divers connect and can just go on and on about diving. i felt like grabbing a 12 pack of beer and talking story all day. and i was also kicking myself in the ass for not having my dive gear in my car. shit, the conditions looked epic for diving….

that hawaiian dude’s name was Ken Kea. he’s part of the diving club called “LAWAI’A.” ken’s a hardcore free diver that just retired so has the time to get in water 3x a week. he recently caught the tako state record that weighted in at 13.32lbs. we exchanged phone numbers and will be diving in the future. what a weird day. i was sitting in my car alone at tracks this morning thinking that i’m pretty crazy to drive all the way down there to check if the water cleaned up. next thing, i made a friend… what a cool day…

i think ken’s club knows how to dive. this catch is crazy… the biggest catch i’ve ever seen….

then i stop by the Ililani hotel in ko’olina, go to the front desk, drop my credit card, and ask for the presidential suite. i got a massage, jumped in the jacuzzi, ate breakfast in bed, then checked out an hour later. wait, now i’m dreaming. haha…
ended up coming back to town to surf ala moana bowls. there were only a few guys out and the waves were small but perfect. gosh, where is everybody? i had a super fun session. what another great day outdoors. waking up early tomorrow and going to keep on going, going, and going…. so please stay out of my way… haha… have a great evening….
**one last thing. i still haven’t had time to catch up on my emails. been too busy having fun and the last place i want to be is behind my computer.. get back to you guys soon. enjoy life….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide