i was watching The Endless Summer last night. it was so nice to see how uncrowded the waves were 50 years ago. it was also so nice to see all the surfers unique style. back then, no 2 surfers surfed alike. each had their own style and it was all beautiful. this has to be one of the best surf movies ever made…
across the channel from Ala Moana Bowls, there use to be a surf spot called the Garbage Hole. a compact hollow right that barreled on every wave. it was a regular footers dream until they threw rocks over it and built Magic Island. OMG!
anyway, my Endless Summer is still going strong. too bad the Garbage Hole spot isn’t there anymore because it would be nice to foil this Bowls left and pump across the channel and get barreled on a right. that would have been a dream…
